I'm not sure whether it's going to appear online (if it does, I promise I'll post a link) but in case it doesn't, here's the text of my first column which was published last Wednesday. I don't know how much interest it will have for people who don't live in Reading, or don't like restaurants, but I suppose we'll see. Let me know in the comments. I'm thinking of writing about food a bit more in the weeks ahead (a week on holiday in Paris will do that to you) so let me have your thoughts on that too.
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When I tell people I’m from Reading they say one of two things. The uninitiated say “Oh, the festival” – as if my hometown only exists for five days every year. I can’t blame them; it’s a view shared by much of the country and most of the media (they obviously don’t know about the brass band concerts in the Forbury).
The more initiated say is “Reading’s very good for shops, isn’t it?” I always want to reply by saying: I suppose, if you view shops like stickers in a Panini album and your idea of a good town is one that has all the same shops as everybody else, only more of them. In that case, Reading’s brilliant. We have four branches of Burger King. We have three branches of Boots. We have four Starbucks. Nobody can deny that we have more shops than nearly anywhere else. Go Reading! (I don’t, though. You get funny looks.)
The thing I want to tell them and never do is this: “Reading’s okay for shops, but it’s magnificent for lunch.” I should, because I believe it; it’s a terrific place to have lunch, and there’s much more to it than grabbing a toasted sandwich at Caffé Nero.
Take Picnic, one of my favourite places in Reading. Their lunchtime salad’s one of the best things you can buy for under a fiver. It’s a plate of dressed leaves, couscous and fun stuff: tiny mushrooms; olives; capers; peppers; the occasional surprise flake of salt. But that’s not all, because Picnic understands that salad’s only enjoyable if you put something tasty on top of it which only pretends to be healthy - something, fundamentally, which is not salad.
Depending when you go, you might get Parma ham, creamy mozzarella and soft sweet wedges of peach, or you might be treated to roast chicken – miles from the dubious cubes in supermarket salads - with lashings of pesto. If it’s warm enough you can sit outside with your lunch and watch the world go by, on their way to all those shops everybody says are so fantastic. It’s perfect.
Don’t fancy a salad? The alternatives are endless. You could go to the Mission and have their carnitas tacos – soft tortillas full of slow-cooked shredded pork, lettuce, sour cream and red chipotle salsa which are indecently delicious and miles away from anything you could whip up at home with a tired kit from Old El Paso.
If you fancy going upmarket, head down the riverside to LSQ2 and try their cracking set lunch. I’ve had chicken liver parfait, top notch Thai fishcakes, moules marinière and one of the tastiest burgers in Reading (not all at once) – and it’s a tenner for two courses. God knows how they turn a profit, but I’m not complaining.
If you feel more adventurous, head to China Palace for dim sum. They leave the menu on the table, you tick what you want and hand it to the waiter. It’s like food bingo, and appropriately enough the menu is a gamble too; you have to wade through the tripe and chicken feet (not literally) but if you choose well – the roast pork buns and Japanese octopus, for instance – it’s lunch unlike anything else you’ll find in town.
The best thing, though, is that the list keeps growing. I need to try Pau Brasil and the sushi place by the Hexagon, and I hear Chan Cham’s not bad. So next time someone mentions Reading, I’ll tell them it’s great for lunch. Now I just need to find somewhere that does a decent breakfast.

29 comments:
I haven't found a decent breakfast in Reading either, but you've inspired me to try The Mission and LSQ2. I've already eaten dim sum at China Palace and salad at Picnic and toasted banana sandwiches at Pau Brasil.
PS Great first column! What are you going to write about next?
Bill's is pretty decent for breakfast too - oh the bacon! Just thinking about it makes me nearly weep for love.
I know this is almost blasphemy to many Reading residents but I think Bill's is a bit overrated.
Julie - The closest I've got to a decent breakfast so far is Carluccios. Soft scrambled egg, thin ribbons of crispy pancetta, wild mushrooms and ciabatta toast, with a cappuccino and a glass of apple juice, all for £8. I have a number of ideas for columns but I think the next one is going to be about small plates. And thanks! So glad you like the column.
Fear not. Like Alice, we’re always interested in questions of eating and drinking.
This overview is a good start. Looking forward to deeper delves into the local offerings. I’m inordinately fond of picnic food - at all hours of the day and seasons of the year. Give me a venison and mushroom pie, cold, any old salad, and a little cabernet and I’m there...
Great article... congrats on the column, you're a pro food writer now, that means!
Jeaux - I think one of the big problems with food writing, especially involving restaurants, is how to make it interesting to people when the vast majority of them won't/can't ever visit the restaurants in question. So let's see. I don't plan for my column to be anything as straightforward as just restaurant reviews. I like a nice deli board too - some parma ham, focaccia, a good olive oil and some slices of mozzarella and I'm a happy man.
Kavey - Thank you, glad you liked it. I can join the internet's curious food fraternity at last!
Congrats MLC on getting your own column! Although to be honest I am surprised it didn't happen much much sooner =)
Maybe your column can branch further out to 'foods of the world' where you can talk about the places you've eaten at on your travels.
The scrambled egg at Cote is divine.
I want tiny mushrooms now...
good job!
Congratulations!
I'm glad you managed to make your food column still sound like you.
Look forward to more ...
Really impressed, and your first column was very enjoyable - made me salivate (sorry if that's a bit graphic!)
Congrats!
Congratulations - a bonafide columnist!
You are very talented, and simply writing about eating out limits your great storytelling ability, but I believe this is just the jump off point, and I trust that you will find marvelous ways to make stories about eating out more interesting than any of your fellow Reading dwellers ever imagined they could be. If you could write about the people involved in preparing this excellent food, that is where you would truly shine, because you have the magical tough of making these real life characters walk into the minds of you readers, so that we feel we truly know them in all their idiosyncratic glory.
you've got me convinced. I want all that.
i am not from Reading.i am actually from india..calcutta to be more specific...i was having my breakfast (of singara a.k.a samosa and jilipi a.k.a jalebi)while reading this..food lovers like me are adept at visualising food so even if i won't be eating there i quite enjoyed reading about it.i could almost smell some of the things.
What a versatile chap you are! Like Mimi, above, so glad to see you haven't lost MrLondonStreet's voice. I look forward to future eruditions on sushi, tapas, breakfast et al. I hope it might one day lure me to stopping off en route from Paddington to Bath, and perhaps a snack or beverage in the company of Reading's newest food critic?
Hey well done! I shall look at Reading in a whole new light now.
I might even go there someday.
First of all, thanks for all the comments on this one – very proud of this, and waiting to be found out when it becomes apparent that I’m far more of a writer than I am a foodie. Also, it seems unlikely they are going to put this piece online so sorry about that. Maybe next time.
Out Of Sync – Thank you! I’d be loath to do that because, although I could easily write reams about some of my foodie adventures overseas, I wonder how interesting it would really be to the core readership of the paper. So I think it will be a mixture of writing about specific restaurants and general writing about eating out which is a topic I am quite keen on. I love restaurants – everything from the ritual to the feeling of luxury to the service experience, not to mention the almost limitless people watching potential.
meemalee – Thank you. It’s easier said than done with a word count limit!
Nicky – A couple of people have said that reading it made them hungry which feels like real success to me. One food blogger I occasionally read has the talent of making almost anything sound inedible (some words – like “gelatinous” or “wobbly” – should never be used when writing about food, if you ask me).
Robbie – Thank you very much!
Hillary – Funny you say that because I do find some of the people fascinating and there is one that I really want to profile at some point. The thing is that I have to strike a balance between the kind of things I love to write and the kind of things that readership will be interested in. One step at a time, I think.
ellen – Excellent! I want you to want all that.
songbird – I’m really pleased to hear that. I have only been to India once – to Bangalore, but that was enough to make me really envious of your fantastic food.
Matt – I love sushi but I don’t know if I’d feel qualified to write about it. I think I will take a while to find my feet in this area. However, if you ever want to make a stop in Reading I would gladly shout you a snack, a beverage, a meal or any combination of the three.
livesbythewoods – Well well well, it’s been ages. Hope you are well, and yes – Reading isn’t half bad you know.
Now this is splendid, and I am so happy that you are published, but how unfair for the vast majority of us who are lucky/unlucky to have so much as a KFC. in our Charity shopped High Streets, to read of the delights to be found in your home town.
Even make the joys of others a good read.
Moannie - I'm sure that the countryside around you is awash with lovely pubs serving delicious food. But thank you - I agree that it's always nice to read about the joys of others. Well, sometimes nice, as long as it doesn't make me too envious.
congrats MLS...your talent is being rewarded...and a few free lunches won't go astray....well done and Happy Christmas!
May you get tons of free meals in exchange. :-)
The only disappointment is that your column is only monthly and not weekly. Surely there are enough places in Reading to eat to provide material for every Friday?
Congrats on the column MLS from a fellow Food Monthly contributor.
Not sure if your breakfast search extends to Caversham but I can seriously recommend the Alto Lounge for a very good breakfast/brunch. I adore their Alto Lounge special which has chorizo alongside the fried eggs, BBQ beans and melted cheese.
Debbie – We’ll see, no freebies yet but I eat out often enough that I might as well get something out of it! Thanks for the comment, hope you had a lovely Christmas.
Lady Jennie – As above, I’m afraid. Hope you are okay and that 2012 has started well for you.
Alison – That’s very kind of you to say, but the Reading Post only does a food supplement monthly so once a month will do nicely. I’m not sure the column is going to be as straightforward as a monthly restaurant review because they have other people for that sort of thing. It might be a more general column about eating out. We’ll see how it evolves. I do occasionally think of doing restaurant reviews on the blog but I think they’d be very dull to most people who don’t live in my home town (and even possibly people who do).
Ben – Thanks! I did see your piece in FM as well and enjoyed it – but shamefully I’m no cook. As I’m not a local to Caversham, and would only really head there for dinner, I’m unlikely ever to enjoy the delights of an Alto Lounge breakfast. A shame, as you make it sound pretty good. I’ve never eaten there, but they do a nice pre-prandial Bloody Mary before heading up the road to Mya or Kyrenia.
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