Thursday, 30 June 2011

The suburbs

The bus dropped me off in the suburbs and when I got off, I felt like I was visiting another country. It was a wonder the driver didn’t ask to see my passport when I boarded and put my exact change in the hopper. It was strange to be on a bus again, it made me realise how rarely I take them these days. The free coach from the station to my office doesn’t count, that’s a different experience altogether, always full of people you know and have at least something in common with. Buses aren't quite like that - half the fun is that mixture of people you see every day and new people whose paths cross yours only now and again. To the regulars on that bus that day, that meant people like me.

And yet I was suddenly reminded of all those years on the bus - different numbers, routes and stages in my life. The 65 from the Brecon Road shops into town in 1996, living at home with my mum and my brother and working in Reading for the first time. Trips to the supermarket en masse on a Friday, totting up who owed what on the weekly shop in tiny columns down the left and right margins of the Waitrose receipt. The horrors of the number 17 from that miserable house on Talfourd Avenue in 1999 where everybody but me took drugs all the time. I remember the windows steaming up that winter and the breath of all the shivering passengers forming in thick clouds like cotton wool in the air. You could have reached out and torn it into balls. The number 20 from the university in 2002, living with someone I didn’t much like in an area where I was constantly reminded of the student I still wished I was, gliding down the long graceful tree-lined hill that was Kendrick Road, taking me into town at nights so I could drink with friends and pretend I didn’t have to go home at the end.

Just like Jason Bourne, even after he loses his memory, can’t help but scan a room for exits and suspicious strangers, my knowledge of buses is still the same. Back then, it was all about women; I actually got several dates on buses, back in the days when women were far more desperate and the internet had not yet taken hold of everyone. I always used to find a seat where I could look at someone attractive, either straight on or (for the advanced practitioner) by checking out the reflection in the window. Old habits die hard; I found a seat near the back with a good view of the only woman on the bus who looked like a human. Of course, she was easily ten years younger than me. Old habits, like old clothes, can become embarrassing.

When the bus coasted along the long road that bisects the suburbs, past the big unattractive supermarket, past the police station, it reached a stage where I could hear the percussive sweep of the top deck pushing the branches of trees aside. I hadn’t heard that sound in years, and I’d forgotten how calming it could be. The smallest leaf made its way in through an open window and landed on my shoulder. I didn’t want to brush it off.

Twenty minutes early to see the dentist, I had nothing better to do than to go exploring. The sunshine was vast and unhesitant, baking the streets and casting every building in the most flattering of lights. If the suburbs were ever going to be beautiful, it would be on a day like today. They still weren’t beautiful, though; every house looked exactly the same, every unfashionable UPVC window or dark wood door-frame probably had the same widescreen television, Ikea Billy bookcases and dining table behind it. I remember when this suburb was built it was the largest housing development in Europe. We used to tell that fact to visiting relatives as if it was something to be proud of (of course, back then we lived in the suburbs ourselves).

I was shocked by how quiet it was - school would surely have finished and yet there seemed to be nobody around. The occasional child would go past on a bike, heading for the cycle path that presumably went to the signposted BMX park. Even the reference to a BMX seemed dated, but that might just have been because I remembered them the first time around. Suddenly I felt very old.

The bus shelter was deserted, although someone had scratched an obscenity into it in the glass, presumably someone less enamoured with the facilities for local cyclists. Everything seemed green yet characterless, as if this place only really existed at night. Next to the shelter was a notice board advertising the usual sad mixture of events that passes for community life in places like this - raffles, church events, amateur dramatics performances, tribute bands at the community centre. I looked long enough to realise that the majority of the notices were out of date, which somehow seemed fitting.

My dentist is in a parade of shops - I suppose that’s what we had, before malls came along, parades or shopping precincts. When I grew up in the suburbs, going to the shopping precinct was the major event of Saturday, and the shops there were important. Beatties, the only games shop, where I could order Dungeons and Dragons books and lead figures that I would half-heartedly try and paint in the garage, all fingers and thumbs and white spirit. Milwards, the shoe shop that, every year without fail, supplied me with an increasingly clownish pair of huge black sensible shoes for the school year ahead. Hong Kong Garden, the Chinese takeaway we went to for special occasions on Friday nights, serving fish, chips, acrid brown curry sauce for the rest of my family and an apocalyptic orange sweet and sour sauce for me, with huge chunks of pineapple floating in it. The video shop, our main means of escape from the suburbs (the multiplex wasn’t to arrive for years).

This parade, though, was a far more threadbare collection of establishments. A couple of almost stereotypical estate agents, with spiky haired spivs in cheap shirts swivelling idly in their chairs waiting for the day to end, collapsing under the weight of their immense tie knots. A gym called “Curves”, clearly hedging its bets in a way I didn’t know whether to find shrewd or endearing. “Caffe Med”, an Italian restaurant which looked a lot like a leisure centre with a menu in the window full of spelling mistakes. I spent a couple of minutes considering how frayed squid would actually taste.

The shops were even more forlorn. The chemist had a slogan saying We care! in a tacky cursive script, and as I took a photo of it the woman behind the counter scowled out of the window at me. “Mike’s Waterfront Warehouse” was long closed down, probably on the basis that it was nowhere near water of any kind. “Booze Bargain” threatened exactly that, though you could tell from the outside that it just meant cheap booze, which was hardly the same thing. The only other shops seemed to be trading on their inability to spell; “Pet Fayre”, “By-Wise”. As I slouched around, taking it all in, a couple of schoolkids wandered past. The uniforms said they must be around fourteen, the hair and makeup suggested they were in their early twenties and from the look they gave me, I might as well have been the wrong side of fifty. If I’d asked them to take me to their leader, what would have happened?

I’ve never been so pleased to walk into a dentist’s waiting room in my life.

On the way home, intact and undrilled, I sat at the front and pretended to drive the bus. I was too old for eyeing up women, and there were no women on the bus anyway. Besides, you are never too old to enjoy driving the bus. I watched out the front as the roads slipped by, an identikit maze of houses, cul-de-sacs named after cars, or local dignitaries, or other towns somewhere. The bus went past Sellafield Way, a clear sign that a local authority had run out of ideas. And slowly, the streets got less leafy, the driveways less long and the off-road parking less plentiful, and the world started to look like the world I knew. But I was still thinking about the suburbs.

Because the truth is that for many years of my life, I lived somewhere like that and I looked around me and thought This is enough. There was a park to walk the dog in, and a hill to go down in a sledge, and a video shop if you wanted to be somewhere else, and fried food covered in orange sauce on Friday nights. And there was a back garden, and a barbecue, and a garage with a lawnmower in it, and a driveway lined with lavender bushes. And there were only three pubs, and one of them involved a walk across the park and along the lake, and the other was right on the edge of town. And there weren’t restaurants, because we didn’t eat out back then, there was the pub at the edge of town and the Indian takeaway and that was all. And that was enough.

I don’t know when it stopped being enough. I don’t know what enough even means any more. I can go out whenever I like, do whatever I want, eat wherever I fancy. The world has changed so completely that, for me at least, the suburbs are like a living museum of how things used to be. It’s as odd for me to think people still live that way as it would be if you took me to Eastern Europe, or an Amish village.

On the bus home, I thought about the suburbs and I wondered why I didn’t feel sad. And I wondered why I did.

23 comments:

mrtsblog said...

Your writing makes me jealous. I haven't lived enough to come close to it. Brilliant as usual

Lo said...

Moaning with pleasure.......you are amazing! And you never disappoint.....what skill, talent, eye and heart......I guess I just have to say it..... I love you.

Baglady said...

I don't think I know anyone who captures normal life like you do. Stunning.

King of New York Hacks said...

Thank you...I have many memories on buses that I have not thought about for years, and it is a shame how the internet has stolen the human connections...well told.

Robbie Grey said...

I loved the descriptions of riding the bus...the routes and the memories contained therein. Back when I lived down below and in urban areas, I rode buses or walked. It took me back.

PattyF said...

Very poignant. There's nothing like revisiting a part of your past to make you appreciate both where you've come from and where you are now.

Jane Griffiths said...

I do like this. Partly because I know where you are writing about, partly because I have never lived in a place like that, partly because I thought I was the only one who felt that sadness about community noticeboards and odd spelling of shop names (in urban places the spelling is just wrong without trying to be, remember "Bag Shop Through Sainsbary"?) and entirely because this is a piece of writing that makes you go YES and then swallow hard.

Rose said...

I wish people still asked each other out on public transport, the possibility livens up travel. I think a guy was going to ask me the other morning as we chatted for about ten minutes but as he was clearly going to Heathrow and told me it was on a round the world trip (hence he asked me to help with his 3 suit cases) it seemed like it wouldn't be a long term thing.

The suburbs, I thought this might be about Arcade Fire but no. I think you're right they are like a museum, or living in the Truman Show. I am from now quite the burbs but not quite the country and I find them very safe and easy feeling but utterly unreal

Moannie said...

Embarrassing I know, but I am almost moaning with pleasure and pain. Pleasure because that is what your writing gives me, it seems so effortless [yet I know it isn't].Who else can take us with them on a mundane trip through the 'burbs and have us read every word with pleasure, and interest?
The pain comes, for me in recognizing the many parades Harry took us to-soul-less precincts which, though a new phenomena in the post-war years, quickly became windy rubbish filled caverns. And pain reinforces the knowledge that I could never write as well, that any powers I might have are waning.

However...you have once again inspired me and I shall write about a bus ride I recently took.

"A couple of almost stereotypical estate agents, with spiky haired spivs in cheap shirts swivelling idly in their chairs waiting for the day to end, collapsing under the weight of their immense tie knots."
Oh you are good.XX

The Jules said...

The estate I spent some of my formative years in the west midlands didn't really do trees, but we had a marvellous view of the power station, and all the car radios we could scrump.

otherworldlyone said...

You've got such a unique view of the world in general, people and your everyday surroundings - if only everyone were so thoughtful and observant. But even if they were, they wouldn't be able to put it into words the way you do.

The last bit in particular, about things being enough, is interesting. The way things change, the way what once worked no longer does and the places that felt right no longer do...that's something I think about quite a lot.

Just beautiful.

Anonymous said...

Lower Early never sounded so good

Shundo said...

Lower Earley never sounded good to me, but then I can still remember the fields that were there before the houses. I had a lurching feeling at each name I recognised - Beatties (that's where I got my model railway stuff), Millwards, Sellafield Way (what were they thinking?). I used to resent the fact that most of the street names there, and in Woosehill, which was even closer to where I lived, depicted trees and flowers that had been displaced.
I never felt that such a place was going to be enough for me, and it feels a long way away now. Life can take you to so many places, but I can imagine how small and familiar the world would have felt if I had been riding that bus with you.

Ed said...

I read this post on the number 17 heading past the sad ruins of the Sardar Palace on a summers evening, in my way to town. Very evocative, and love the description on the White sock'ed ones (Estate Agents)

Ed.
P.S sorry for crappity spelling, can't seem to reedit without deleting everything. It's like using a typewriter.

Sharon Longworth said...

I read this Thursday night, but didn't leave a comment then, because it made me feel incredibly sad. So I've come back today for another read. I think I know now why I had that reaction. It wasn't the first part, which made me think about my own early bus rides on the No.3 bus up to London (really happy memories. I think what did it was the idea of things being enough for some people and not enough for others, and what that means for me in terms of what I'd wish for and what I'd settle for. Anyway, enough personal introspection - because, as you've realised by now, your writing made me think, and feel, and that MLS is your enduring talent.

Spiddly said...

"...stereotypical estate agents, with spiky haired spivs in cheap shirts swivelling idly in their chairs waiting for the day to end, collapsing under the weight of their immense tie knots."

Excellent. You give Jarvis Cocker a run for his money with these vignettes of life.

Technogran said...

Wonderful post so full of nostalgia. You must do bus rides more often, its enlightening for the observant such as yourself. I could pen loads of blog posts about bus journeys and the occupants therein, and train journeys as well. Wonderful writing as always.

Dolly said...

Absolutely blissful to read. For the nostalgia, the introspecful themes, the sadness but most of all the buses. I am a bus person, I have never driven a car. I particularly love buses here in Cork City, where people still chat to strangers and thank the driver when they get off. The buses full of the soft lilting sing-song of Cork accents. When I am home in London, I always try and sit on the top deck, in the front seat. A beautiful post Mr LS.

Technogran said...

We always thank the driver as we get off, and chat to anyone and everyone. Mind you, its interesting to note these days how many seem uncomfortable sitting next to a stranger, its why they tend to sit down on the bus (or train) and place their bags on the seat next to them to try and dissuade anyone from sitting there.

spikeygolightly said...

That was my childhood and it was never enough.

Mr London Street said...

Thanks for your comments on this, everyone.

mrtsblog - That’s really kind of you. I’m not sure it’s about how much you’ve lived (I haven’t had an especially exciting life), more about how you look at the world. So don’t be so hard on yourself.

Lo - That means an awful lot. Thank you. I wasn’t sure how this one would go down with people.

Baglady - I am lucky to have the kind of life I do, you know that better than anyone.

King Of New York Hacks - Hello! Long long time since I saw you stop by, it really cheered me up to get a comment from you. The internet is a funny one, it takes away some connections but it replaces them with people (like you) that otherwise I’d never have met.

Robbie - I don’t think I could like the rural lifestyle. But rural buses are quite an experience too.

PattyF - Yes, I think you’re very right about that.

Jane - Yes! I do remember “Sainsbary”, I always found that hilarious and embarrassing. I’m really glad this piece had that effect on you.

Rose - No, I can’t stand the Arcade Fire I’m afraid. Do you think he fancied you, or did he just want help with his luggage?

Moannie - I loved this comment so much. And yes, “rubbish filled caverns” sums so many of them up, it’s very very sad.

The Jules - West Midlands, eh? Please tell me you got shot of the accent.

Mr London Street said...

OWO - Often we don’t realise that things are no longer enough until we are slap bang in the middle of them and have been for some time. I had that experience a few years back, though it’s not something I’ve chosen to write about yet.

Anonymous - And it probably never will again!

Shundo - I hope it wasn’t too unpleasant a nostalgia trip for you. It’s hard to imagine getting much further away from where we grew up than you have.

Ed - I miss the Sardar Palace. But have you been to the Abbot Cook? It’s a brilliant pub where the Upin Arms once was. I highly recommend it, for food and for booze. Maybe I’ll see you there some time?

Sharon - Thank you so much. Getting comments like this is what hoodwinks me into thinking I have a talent.

Spiddly - Interesting, I’ve never been a big Cocker fan but I know a compliment when I see one, and thank you.

Technogran - Go on then, do some blog posts about bus journeys! I’d love that.

Dolly - Sorry I missed you on your recent visit to the UK. I like talkative bus passengers too. When I lived in Nottingham everyone thanked the driver as they got off: “Thank you, driver”. I liked that old-fashioned courtesy.

Technogran - I am a terrible one for putting my bag on the seat next to me, I’m afraid.

spikeygolightly - Well, I hope you’ve managed to get away from it and you have enough now.

Kono said...

American suburbs are both ridiculously bland and bizarre at the same time, i just moved to one after living in "the shit" for 15 years and i there are things i miss about living in the city and things i don't, but busses, i avoid like the plague, i'll walk or ride or take a train but busses i can't do.